Rocks stacked on rocks form what passes for a wall at a small shoe-repair stall tucked under the overhead bridge in Meshualekya adjacent Tilahun Gessesse round about on Ras Biru street. A sheet of heavy-duty plastic serves as the roof, doing its best to shield the space from the fierce sun and the surprise showers. Above the stall, the soles of long-retired shoes hang in uneven rows. They are not there for decoration; they work harder than any billboard, quietly reminding passersby that help is available the next time a favourite pair starts falling apart. The setup may look improvised, but it delivers its message with the kind of confidence only a veteran street business can pull off.

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