
Radar | Apr 20,2019
The pioneering spirit behind Shoa Bakery, a name that has become synonymous with bread across Addis Abeba and far beyond, began 64 years ago. Zemui first entered a local bakery as an apprentice, quickly mastering the intricacies of baking while his knack for numbers helped him tune in to the subtleties of business.
When his retiring Italian employer offered to sell him the shop, Zemui seized the chance, buying on credit and opening the first Shoa Bakery branch near Aba Koran Street in Merkato.
From that single outlet, the business grew organically: within 15 years, the Shoa brand stretched to more than 14 branches, selling bread then priced at one Birr for 20 loaves.
By the time Zemui died at the age of 94, two years ago, the company had expanded into flour milling and pasta production. His legacy now rests with his children – Tsehaye and his siblings, Abraham, Dawit, Yemaneh, Mussise, and Timnit Zemui (who runs Bilo’s Pastry) – who steer the wider family group, MANNA Food Complex Plc. Q: Did you grow up wanting to run the family business, or were you pulled in another direction? And what is the most bizarre piece of advice an older relative gave you that, against all odds, worked?
Tsehaye: Having studied international economics at San Francisco University and completed a master’s in business, I planned to remain in the US. But when my father called, the family dilemma resolved itself: my siblings and I joined the business without hesitation.
My father once told me: “Don’t put all your eggs in one basket.” It sounded obvious, even strange in its simplicity, yet it has guided every big decision we have made.
Q: How do you maintain the old-school charm and family traditions that people love without falling behind modern expectations?
Bread remains at the centre of everything, but we have invested in new standards and technology. We also diversified, launching a pasta line and modernising the flour mill under our sister company, MANNA Food Complex.
Q: What is your secret for surviving those heated boardroom debates with relatives who still use your childhood nickname? And how often do you consult your parents’ coffee-stained notebook to guide today’s decisions?
In truth, we don't have boardroom rows; we just have discussions. My father’s notebook is still a reference point, and so are his favourites: “Don’t put all your eggs in one basket” and “Don’t live beyond your means.”
Q: If your business has an age-old family motto, what is it really (not just what is on the brochure)? And which piece of “family business wisdom” will you refuse to pass down? Why?
The motto is simple: constantly improve the business. There is no bit of inherited wisdom I would refuse to share.
Q: If the company’s journey became a holiday movie, would it be a comedy, a drama or a cautionary tale? And if the business were a film character, would it be the eccentric genius, the lovable underdog or something else entirely?
At different times, it would be all three – comedic, dramatic, and cautionary. As a character, it is probably the wise cousin.
Q: When you propose changes that break with long-held tradition, do you hear, “But that’s not how your parents did it!” – and how do you balance preserving tradition with evolving the brand?
There has never been pushback. Our shared motto – improve and expand – gives us a license to upgrade processes and technology while keeping the core intact.
Q: What is the most infamous meltdown in the company’s history that everyone still talks about, and did it reshape how you operate?
During the Derg regime in 1985, my father tried to import new machinery, but officials confiscated it. The financial crisis that followed nearly sank us. We survived – and doubled down on the “no eggs in one basket” rule.
Q: If the business showed up at a holiday dinner, would it be the wise uncle, the overachieving cousin, or the unpredictable in-law? And behind the scenes, do you keep any quirky holiday rituals alive simply because they’re part of the family DNA?
Definitely, the wise cousin. The rituals are modest but enduring, mainly gathering around fresh bread straight from the oven.
Q: Between family loyalty and customer loyalty, which one truly keeps you up at night? Can you recall a hilariously awkward moment when the generational baton was passed that shows this tension?
The customer always comes first. My father’s line was: “The customer is king – if he leaves, he may never return.” Happily, the baton passing went smoothly; no slapstick drops to report.
Q: Which item from your product line is so dear that you secretly hoard it for yourself?
Not the bread. It’s the vintage machinery, reminders of the company’s journey and vision.
Q: Have you ever been tempted to rebrand around a bizarre old family saying, purely for nostalgia, no matter how strange it might sound now?
No. The sayings stay in the family, and the brand stays “Shoa Bakery.”
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