On the outskirts of the capital north lies a valley surrounded by hills dubbed Asko Thrift Market. The place comes to life before the break of dawn with suppliers making their way to assume their designated wood podium. Their section (shirt, jacket, shoes) is hung with a signboard on top. Then the tender begins.

Vendors bring forth an item and raise it above their heads looking down at the crowd with potential buyers calling out prices off the top of their lungs. The quick yet chaotic scene lasts until the seller believes it has reached a good price point, announcing the win. The winner throws the agreed amount to the stage with the crumpled cloth thrown back. Buyers arrive before sunrise to get better quality and price, with a second-hand t-shirt price starting from 50 Br and rising to up to 400 Br.

The bustling mass, chattering noises and distinct smells all heighten as time passes by, keeping attendees from realising the chilly morning weather. It is possible to lose a partner one came with amidst the tumultuous crowd like a chicken cluster. However, the trained eyes of "unofficial security" on the hills, pinpoint outlaws taking advantage of the disorder.

Carrying a pile of shirts and shorts in his hands, the 31-year-old Ahmed was heading out from the market. He did not even bother to bring a bag.

"It's part of my daily routine," he told Fortune.

The father of one earns a living from selling thrift clothes by the roadside along Piassa with few price adjustments. He joined the business a year ago with 1,000 Br as it did not require much initial capital. As the sole breadwinner for his wife and daughter, he lacked the money to open a shop. Ahmed believes the reduced prices, quality products and uniqueness make second-hand clothing preferable to many.

Second-hand clothes are listed as prohibited and restricted items by the law. Yohannes Weldegebrel, a lawyer with experience in tax laws and commercial codes said it is one of the many areas the regulatory body turned a blind eye to.

Despite the ban on the import and sale of secondhand clothing, thrift shops have adamantly put their billboards and social media promotions with addresses. Near the Hayahulet area, a thrift shop stands void of competitors nearby for close to seven years. The owner Tigist was motivated to start the business after observing the high demand and few participants in the market. She gets supplies from Adama (Nazareth) or Dire Dewa cities paying half in advance.

A wide customer range is online based, she said people usually come to the shop to pick up their already paid clothes.

"Most of the displayed items are already sold," she told Fortune.

The thrift shop owner in Adama town, Selam Habtewold, commented on the quality of these clothes(thrift) being way better than brand new ones available in the market. She explained the price for a t-shirt quadruples to a minimum of 200 Br by the time it is washed and ironed, with little or no alterations, hanging on the displays looking as good as new. She said the 25-year-old opened her shop last year with most customers coming through referrals or views on social media platforms that promote her business.

"The demand is high," she said.