Lalibela town draws thousands of Ethiopians each year to celebrate Christmas (Genna). Tourism expert Netsanet Teressa, a regular visitor for work, notes that many now prefer flying over driving, citing security problems, despite the existence of asphalt road connecting Addis Abeba to Lalibela via Kombolcha.
Netsanet secured his plane ticket in mid-November for under 4,000 Br. Last week, Ethiopian Airlines' round-trip prices ranged between 11,000 and 14,000 Br.
Genna celebrations in Lalibela begin on January 5 and continue until the morning of January 7, marking the end of the 43-day fast. Pilgrims fill the church courtyards while dignitaries and international tourists gather on the cliffs overlooking the Church of Saint George, the most famous of Lalibela’s eleven rock-hewn churches.
Wendimnew Wedaje, Lalibela’s deputy mayor, expects over 1.5 million visitors this year. To manage the influx, authorities have formed eight committees tasked with ensuring security, cleanliness, and smooth operations during the celebrations.
"We have already started welcoming guests," Wendimnew told Fortune. Last year, around half a million people attended Genna in Lalibela, three times the number from the previous year. This year, the return of internet services following regional unrest and conflict signals a hopeful recovery for the town’s tourism sector.
A conflict between armed groups commonly known as Fano and the federal government erupted in the Amhara Regional State in April 2023, and a state of emergency was declared in August that year. Conditions remain unpredictable, although the government controls major cities.
Before the war and the coronavirus pandemic, the Amhara Tourism Bureau had annual revenues of 5.4 billion Br. The ongoing conflict has raised safety issues among potential visitors, leading to postponed travel.
The tourism sector, crucial to the region's economy, has seen a substantial decline, particularly between August 2023 and February 2024. Before the Covid-19 pandemic, the Ethiopian tourism sector contributed nearly 4.8 billion dollars to GDP, with international tourist arrivals surpassing 1.4 million.
Wendimnew noted that the town’s authorities are working closely with Ethiopian Airlines to maintain reasonable prices, as the carrier tends to raise fares due to flights returning to Addis Abeba mostly empty.
In a press release issued last week, Ethiopian Airlines announced that flight prices to Lalibela and Gonder will rise during the Genna holiday, along with an increase in flight frequency.
Many hotels in Lalibela remain closed following years of war. Habte Melese, owner of Sora Lodge, once a popular spot for local and foreign officials, recalls the bustling pre-pandemic days when his hotel was constantly full.
"Before 2020, we were overcrowded and overbooked," Habte said. "Comparing this period to those days feels like daydreaming."
Travel advisories remain a major obstacle to recovery. The U.S. Department of State warns against travel to the Amhara region, citing "sporadic violent conflict and civil unrest." The UK, Australia, and Canada have issued similar warnings, complicating travel insurance for potential visitors.
"Over 90pc of our guests were foreigners, and these red alerts cast a black shadow," Habte lamented. Since the war, his staff has been cut from 56 to 26, as most hotels in the area remain shuttered.
Despite the struggle, Habte remains hopeful for the upcoming Genna celebrations. His optimism is echoed by Fitsum Gezahegn, head of the Ethiopian Tour Operators Association. Fitsum believes the tourism sector is ready to welcome visitors but admits the peak years of 2018 and 2019 now feel like "a fantasy."
A general manager at a major Addis Abeba-based tour operator, who wished to remain anonymous, said he will not be offering tours this Genna due to ongoing travel restrictions and unrest. Most of his clients are foreigners. With the recurrent armed skirmishes in the region, demand has dried up.
The general manager explained that international tourists and expats living in Ethiopia form the bulk of their clientele. Local travelers often bypass tour services, preferring to visit in groups or through religious organisations.
Efforts are underway to revive the industry. Endy Assefa, president of the Ethiopian Tourist Guides Professionals Association, shared that his company is exploring partnerships with Ethiopian Airlines to create joint travel packages.
"Many tour guides have left the field, while others are trying to stay afloat by networking on social media," he said.
Andinet Feleke, former president of the Ethiopian Tour Operators Association, voiced similar problems. "We have no guests. Even local visitors are not showing interest," he said. Andinet called on stakeholders of the tourism industry to offer discounts to attract tourists and urged the government to prioritise security and stability.
Mesay Mekonen, former chairperson of the Lalibela Hotel Association, says over 50 hotels operate in Lalibela, but their services are inconsistent due to curfew restrictions. He believes the government has strengthened security ahead of the holiday season.
Economist Atlaw Alemu (PhD) says that peace and security is crucial for boosting local tourism. "We can not function without peace, even for a day," he said. He stated that foreign tourists seek new experiences, but stability is the most important factor they consider. Atlaw also pointed out that even during peaceful times, not enough was done to invest in the tourism sector.
PUBLISHED ON
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