For 43-year-old Alemnesh Neri, travels to her hometown of Gumer in central Ethiopia have long been a cherished tradition. Twice annually for the past 22 years, she would make the trip from Addis Abeba, laden with goods and gifts for family and friends. This year, however, spiralling costs and mounting logistical problems have forced her to cut back her visits to only once.

Items that used to cost her 5,000 Br now have skyrocketed threefold. Inflation has dramatically eroded her purchasing power. Transportation expenses have tripled, soaring threefold from 500 Br, further straining her modest income. Travel itself has become more arduous. Hotels along the route are frequently overcrowded during peak travel times, leaving visitors like Alemnesh scrambling for accommodation.

Despite the allure of cheaper goods in smaller towns along the way, the constraints of rigid bus schedules, often limited to brief one-hour lunch breaks, make it difficult for passengers to make necessary purchases.

“From spices to clothing, these stops offer a break from rising city prices," she told Fortune. "But, the journey has turned into a race against time.”

The New Year festivity coincides with Mesqel, a vibrant carnival celebrated on 27 September, marked by the burning of a large bonfire known as "Demera." The holiday holds deep cultural and religious importance, especially in northern and central Ethiopia. It represents the end of the rainy season and prompts city dwellers to return to the countryside. The festivities are characterised by processions, hymns, and communal gatherings, mirroring the cultural richness of a traditional society.

However, the influx of travellers during the Mesqel season has placed immense pressure on local infrastructure, exacerbated by inflation and security concerns. These issues manifest the broader problems besieging the tourism sector, particularly in regions where Mesqel is heavily celebrated.

The road from Addis Abeba to the Gurage Zone, where Gumer is located, embodies these difficulties. Tour operators report that parts of the route, especially near Boti and Batu (Ziway), are plagued by security concerns. Fears of kidnapping and violence have discouraged local and foreign tourists from using this path.

“Safety has become a paramount concern,” says one operator. “The risks have led many to reconsider their travel plans.”

Infrastructure woes compound the problem. Many roads remain unpaved, creating inconvenience for travellers. Even in Welkite, a central and relatively more developed town along the route, adequate restroom facilities and other essential services are scarce. Unreliable electricity and water supplies make rest stops less comfortable, detracting from the general travel experience.

Yet, local efforts are underway to improve tourism facilities. In the Gurage Zone’s Arekert Wereda, the newly opened Muluworq Resort embodies the region’s ambitions. Built for 250 million Br, the resort boasts 47 rooms, all fully booked in the days leading up to Mesqel. The holiday season has drawn local and international tourists to the area, offering a glimmer of hope for the beleaguered sector.

One such tourist is Getu Yilma, who has travelled to the region from Johannesburg, South Africa, for the past four years. Spending up to 400,000 Br during his six-day visit, Getu acknowledged the progress and the persistent problems in the region's tourism development.

“The zone needs to have better roads,” said Getu. “Improvements to local infrastructure could enhance the tourism experience.”

Despite the arduous journey, the festive atmosphere and the gathering of families from across Ethiopia gave Getu a profound sense of fulfilment. His family celebrated Mesqel through the traditional ox-slaughtering event known as "Qircha", where portions are shared among friends and family.

“It's a connection to our heritage that keeps us coming back,” he said.

However, the tourism sector faces powerful headwinds. The flow of international tourists has been sluggish, particularly in the years following the COVID-19 pandemic. Experts attribute much of this decline to lingering security concerns and travel advisories issued by Western countries like the United Kingdom (UK) and Canada, which discourage non-essential travel to most parts of Ethiopia due to safety risks caused by civil unrest and militarised conflicts.

For Bogale Abey, owner of Dynasty Ethiopia Tour, these travel advisories have had a major impact on the sector.

“Tourists cannot obtain travel insurance with a travel advisory against the country of destination,” he said.

These travel advisories put several regions of the country in the red zone. The result has been a drastic reduction in the number of tourists visiting the country, particularly from foreign nations.

According to Ftsum Gezahegn, president of the Ethiopian Tour Operators Association, which represents over 300 tour operators, many of whom have been struggling due to the downturn in tourist numbers, improved marketing and promotion of Ethiopia, as well as streamlined visa processes, are needed to attract more international visitors.

“We've so much to offer, but the obstacles are formidable,” he told Fortune.