A Journey Through Nature, Culture, History

Dec 28 , 2024
By Eden Sahle

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Two weeks ago, my family, toddler, and I flew to Arba Minch for a few days. Nestled in the lush landscapes of southern Ethiopia, our vacation was a serene retreat from the hustle and bustle of daily life.

The trip was a unique experience for all of us. It was a blend of natural beauty, rich history, and vibrant cultural traditions. Upon arrival at Nech Sar National Park, the first thing that struck us was the fresh breeze. The park is home to wild animals like Grant’s gazelle, dik-dik, hippopotamus, hyenas, zebras, African leopards, lions, cheetahs, baboons, vervet monkeys, and jackals. We were lucky to spot some of them.

The park also hosts various bird species, including pelicans, kingfishers, flamingos, and eagles. After walking a few minutes into the dense forest, we were greeted by the incredible sight of fish dancing in one of the springs. It was fascinating to watch them eagerly nibble on injera we tossed towards them.

One of the most memorable spots was the waterfall, a natural feature once restricted for safety reasons. Now open to visitors, the area offers a charming tradition, drinking water from the falls, served in a local leaf cup, a custom that has endured through the years.

The ancient forests surrounding the park are a marvel in their own right. Some trees are hundreds of years old, with dense canopies that shield visitors not only from the sun but also from the noise of modern life. Walking through these woods feels like stepping into a sanctuary.

A trip to Arba Minch would be incomplete without visiting the famous twin lakes, Abaya and Chamo. Separated by an island known as God’s Bridge, or “Tossa Usacha” in the local language, the lakes are teeming with wildlife. Our guide shared the island’s history, revealing that it was once home to a particular tribe over 500 years ago. Visitors can still catch sight of the ancient terraced farming systems from afar.

Gigantic crocodiles and hippos dominate the waters, while monkeys and other animals roam the surrounding landscapes. A boat ride to the northwest shore of Lake Chamo leads to the Crocodile Market, where enormous wild crocodiles, estimated to weigh up to 700 kilograms, gather to bask in the sun. Observing these giants up close, both at the crocodile ranch and along Lake Chamo, is chilling.

The lakes also bear visible scars of natural disasters. Heavy flooding four years ago submerged several houses in the area, and the roofs of these homes can still be seen peeking above the water today.

Our journey continued to Doreze village, perched on a hill and offering a glimpse into a lifestyle far removed from modern life.

We were greeted warmly with singing and dancing, a tradition designed to make visitors feel like royalty. The villagers dressed us in traditional attire, symbolizing kings and queens, before inviting us to explore their culture and way of life.

A central part of Doreze culture is the false banana plant (enset), their primary source of food. This versatile crop is buried for three months to ferment before being transformed into kocho, a staple bread-like food.

Meal portions in Doreze are small until the farming season begins. Meat and injera, a traditional flatbread, are reserved for special occasions, such as the annual Meskel holiday.

Visitors are welcome to try their hand at traditional knitting, cooking, and even making flour from the false banana plant.

Living at elevations of 2,500 meters above sea level, the villagers construct bamboo houses shaped like elephants to symbolise strength, a tradition dating back to the 16th century. These homes, which can last up to 150 years, are movable. When termites become unbearable, the villagers relocate, carrying their houses with them. Initially built at 12 meters high, the houses gradually shrink over time as termites eat away at the foundation.

The villagers hold deep reverence for their cattle, treating them with the utmost respect. They share living spaces with the animals, valuing them not only for companionship but also as a source of warmth.

One surprising custom is that husbands are entitled to hit their wives and children. However, if family members sit next to the cattle, the husband refrains from doing so, respecting the livestock's presence.

Their homes remain pitch dark even during the day, requiring firewood for light. They light fires in the middle of the small rooms to prepare tea and coffee, a daily ritual. There is no ventilation and the carbon monoxide poisoning was difficult to bear. The villagers seem to endure it. For us, however, the smoke was overwhelming, making it difficult to breathe.

As we packed our bags and bid farewell to this enchanting town, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the vibrant place and the people who took exceptional care of us.

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PUBLISHED ON Dec 28,2024 [ VOL 25 , NO 1287]

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